You have probably heard about The Tangra Project by now. It’s a hearty serving of the City of Joy, right here in the heart of Delhi. The food is delicious, the menu extensive, and superbly crafted. The ambiance does an outstanding balance of old world and contemporary.
During my visit, I tried several appetizers and small plates – and a couple of desserts. The Shrimp pPturi, Chicken Cutlet, Fish and Gondhoraj Lebu dim sums, Chilli Chicken served along with a small waffle square, and Buff Kebabs are dishes I would go back for. In contrast with its drama of smashing a smoking rose on the plate, the Rose is delicately flavored. I enjoyed the rosemary Sandesh (yes, rosemary!) served on a bed of Litchi Rabri more. It does a great job of rounding off a delicious meal.
But my walk around the place with Chef Vikramjit Roy was amongst the most delightful parts of the afternoon. I gathered that TTP aims to bring together a vision of the Calcutta Chef Roy grew up in. His memories and what he noticed growing up make for a significant part of the ethos of the restaurant.
The food of Calcutta, and beyond doubt its culture, is reflective of so many connections over the centuries. From Armenian to Mughal and, of course, influences from the Hakka community – the first settlers from China – Calcutta has embraced and imbibed it all. Making some of it part of its very own! That amalgamation and assimilation of stories and flavors into Calcutta’s food is what The Tangra Project is all about.
Rather admirably, there is an attempt, and I am happy to report a successful one, to try and stay true to real Calcutta and its culinary journey. This is not a celebration of the version of Bengali food that starts with Kosha Mangsho and ends with Payesh. But history is celebrated here via modern presentation, making sure that the curation of dishes will be palatable to a broad audience outside of Kolkata too.
I would recommend this place not just for the delicious food and swish setting – but for the warmth it emanates and the stories it hopes to tell.
