Kalamkari is a special kind of cotton fabric that’s made by hand printing or using hand blocks. It’s an ancient way of painting done with a tamarind pen and natural dyes. This tradition of Kalamkari print has been passed down through many generations. Rooted in ancient traditions, Kalamkari has evolved over centuries, bringing a unique charm to the world of textiles.
In this guide, let us take a closer look at the art of Kalamkari print and explore its history, process, and some best Kalamkari products.
Table of Contents
What is Kalamkari?
The word “Kalamkari” means craftsmanship with a pen, coming from a Persian word. In this art, people draw things like flowers, peacocks, and characters from stories like the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Kalamkari started as a way of telling stories.
Simply put, Kalamkari means painting cotton fabrics with a pen made from a sharp bamboo nib, which controls the flow of color onto the fabric.
A Glimpse Into Its History
Long ago, travellers would go from village to village, sharing stories and sometimes drawing them on canvas. Kalamkari art began long ago, and it’s mainly known for making beautiful sarees. It gained popularity during the time of the Mughal Empire.
This art involves very intricate and detailed painting, resulting in stunning designs with vibrant colours. Over time, artisans modernised Kalamkari by incorporating new ideas and themes inspired by Persian motifs, Hindu mythology, and religious symbols.
This gave Kalamkari its unique identity. The most famous Kalamkari craft flourished during the time of the Mughals and the Golconda sultanate.
Also Read:
Prints Of India: All About Bandhani Print!
The Kalamkari Process
The Kalamkari print process involves the following steps:
- Preparation of the Fabric: The fabric is soaked in a mixture of cow dung and bleach for several hours. After this, it is washed thoroughly and laid out in the sun to dry.
- Drawing the Outline: The artist begins by sketching the design on the fabric using a kalam (pen). The outlines are usually drawn in black using a mixture of jaggery and iron filings.
- Application of Dyes: Natural dyes are applied in layers. After each application, the fabric is washed to remove excess dye and prevent the colors from bleeding. The process is repeated several times, with each washing enhancing the depth and richness of the colors.
- Detailing: Once the main colors are applied, finer details are added using a brush or pen. This includes intricate patterns, borders, and highlights.
- Final Wash: The fabric is given a final wash to remove any remaining dye or starch and then sun-dried. This helps set the colors and gives the fabric a natural sheen.
Styles of Kalamkari Print
In India, there are two special types of Kalamkari print art: the Srikalahasti style and the Machilipatnam style. Kalamkari designs can also vary based on the region where they’re made:
1. Srikalahasti style
The Srikalahasti style of Kalamkari originates from the town of Srikalahasti in the Chittoor district of Andhra Pradesh. This town is historically significant as a centre of temple art, which has greatly influenced the themes and motifs used in this style.
In Srikalahasti style, artists use a pen to draw and color by hand. The designs here are inspired by Hindu mythology, depicting scenes from epics. The colors are derived from natural sources, and the palette is typically earthy, featuring reds, browns, greens, and blues.
2. Machilipatnam Style
The Machilipatnam style, also known as the Pedana style, is named after the town of Machilipatnam (formerly known as Masulipatnam) in Andhra Pradesh. This style developed in a coastal area with a history of trade and cultural exchange, leading to the incorporation of Persian and Mughal influences in the designs. This involves block-painting with natural dyes.
Machilipatnam Kalamkari is even registered as a geographical indication from Andhra Pradesh. In Machilipatnam style, designs are printed using hand-carved blocks with detailed patterns.
While religious themes are present, the designs are generally more decorative and less narrative-driven compared to the Srikalahasti style.
How To Care For Kalamkari Cotton?
- Prepare a saltwater solution by adding 3-4 spoons of salt to a bucket of water. Soak the fabric (2-3 yards) in this solution for 2-3 hours to set the colour permanently. Rinse the fabric thoroughly afterward.
- Wash the cotton fabric in a regular washing machine cycle after removing the salt water.
- Avoid using the dryer regularly as hot air can damage the fabric.
- Iron the fabric on the reverse side for the first time before using.
- For very thin cotton fabrics like muslin, it’s better to hand wash them using mild detergent.
Remember:
- Dry the fabric in the shade away from harsh sunlight to make it last longer.
- Always use mild detergent, preferably meant for woolen and silk fabrics, to wash organic cotton.
- You can condition the fabric using a good fabric conditioner for added softness.
Best Kalamkari Products
1. Kalamkari Pure Silk Saree
This pure silk saree is inspired by Kalamkari art print. It is a teal blue and green saree that features a woven design border. The best part is that it comes with an unstitched blouse piece which can be stitched as per individual size. Crafted from pure silk material, this saree is machine washable.
2. Kalamkari Art Silk Chanderi Saree
This is yet another stunning Kalamkari art inspired saree. With a combination of sea green and pink color, this saree features an elegant zari border. The unstitched blouse piece features a size of 0.8 meters. The length of the saree is 5.5 meters whereas the width is 1.06 meters.
3. Block Printed Cotton Kalamkari Dupatta
The exquisite craftsmanship of Andhra Pradesh’s expert artisans is visible on this Kalamkari dupatta. Hand block printed with intricate designs, this 2.5-meter masterpiece is crafted from breathable mul cotton fabric, ensuring comfort all day long. The captivating colour palette adds to its allure, making it simply irresistible.
Whether paired with a salwar kameez, kurti, or draped elegantly as a stole over a skirt or top, this dupatta exudes lavish elegance and a rich aesthetic.
4. Pure Wool Kalamkari Stole
This is a pure wool Kalamkari inspired stole from Pashmoda. Crafted with the softest wool material, it is a perfect fashion accessory for every season. You can wear this stole to work, or even a casual dinner date, making it perfect for both formal as well as informal gatherings.
5. Printed Kalamkari Dupatta With Zari
This dupatta is a true work of art. It features beautifully designed black and gold-toned ethnic motifs. Plus, the carefully designed Kalamkari technique adds a nice touch of traditional art. Crafted from 25% polyester and 75% silk, this dupatta features a woven design border.
6. Linen Jari Border Kalamkari Printed Saree with Blouse
This saree is crafted from high-quality blended linen fabric, ensuring both durability and luxurious comfort. Designed with a digitally printed pattern, this saree is specifically tailored for casual and evening wear, exuding elegance and sophistication. It offers versatility and style in equal measure.
Embrace eco-friendly fashion with this digitally printed saree, perfect for elevating your every day and evening attire with effortless grace and charm.
7. Kalamkari Handblock Print Blouse
This printed blouse features a V-neck front design. Made from pure cotton fabric, it features intricate and stunning Kalamkari art work. The Kalamkari design is meticulously created by skilled artisans from Andhra Pradesh. Now experience pure comfort and style with this beautiful hand block print blouse.
8. Hand Block Print Saree Blouse
Crafted with a timeless appeal, this saree blouse showcases the enchanting artistry of Kalamkari. It is defined by a stunning combination of colors – beige, black and maroon. This hand block printed non-padded saree blouse. How is this saree blouse designed? It features three-fourth sleeves, square neck and a full button closure at the front. This saree blouse is perfect for everyday wear as it is comfortable and easy to care for.
Conclusion
From its origins in ancient storytelling to its modern interpretations in fashion and home decor, Kalamkari print remains a symbol of artistic excellence and craftsmanship. Whether adorning sarees, kurtas, or stoles, each piece tells a story of tradition, creativity, and dedication.
Let the eternal grace and charm of Kalamkari print continue to enhance our lives as we embrace the future.
